Build your first resin car - 11
24
24. Internal baffles or supports installed in the body.
so that they don’t flex inward. I add .060” styrene bracing into
the kit in three places. Size the braces so that they fit snugly at
the end of the car. If they are snug against the end, then they
will maintain an even distance between the sides.
Now it is time to install the roof. Add the kit bracing to the ends
and between the styrene bracing you have installed. Make
sure the angles of the braces match the roof angle. You can see
[25] that I have also notched the styrene bracing that I put in. I
should have done that before I glued them in.
Included in the kit is a long support brace which slots into the
kit-supplied roof braces. I don’t often use these but substitute
styrene instead. I find the styrene more stable dimensionally
and easier to use. In my case, the dimension was .040” X .100”.
I didn’t have a piece of styrene that matched so I just cut a strip
off a black .040” sheet. Glue this in, making sure it is level with
the apex of the roof guides.
Next glue on the roof, doing one side at a time. I use canopy
glue here so that I have some working time. Apply the glue
25
25. Baffles notched for the roof support, with the
weights installed.
to the other side and install the other half of the roof. Check
that you have an even overhang on the sides and ends. This
is where the canopy glue is handy; it gives you some working
time before it sets up.
Final check
With the roof on, check for gaps. If you have small gaps as I
did, then use some body filler to fill them. Notice that the run-
ning board has not been applied yet. I still have to add some
detail parts, the running board, and more importantly, the run-
ning board supports that can be damaged with handling. I add
these last. Don’t worry about the gap in the center of the roof.
It will be covered by the running board and will not be seen.
If you like, you can add some glue to the center of the roof to
help secure it.
MRH-Aug 2014
