Build your first resin car - 10
22
22. The completed underframe installed in the car.
Now glue the underframe to the sides and ends. The easiest
way to do this is to glue it from the inside and then set it aside
to harden. Once the underframe is mounted, you end up with
something looking like [22].
I am not worried about coupler height at this stage, just
mounting them correctly on the underframe. These prototype
car had Barber Stabilized S1 trucks which are not yet available.
I fitted temporary trucks to my car to check the height. It was
low but there is no point in adjusting the height until I can get
the correct trucks. These should be coming soon from Rapido.
Weight for performance
It’s time to weight the car to NMRA standards. The kit instruc-
tions call for 2 ounces. I use tire balancing weights which are
lead covered in zinc to enable them to be handled safely.
Whatever you use, make sure to center the weight in the car.
The completed car, rounding curves, could have a problem with
weights off center.
23
23. The corner grab installed on one half of the roof.
Once the car weights are added, move on to the roof assem-
bly. The roof is in three parts. The instructions call for adding
the roof hatches next. This would make installing the corner
grabs difficult, so I did them first. Use the same method, as the
grab irons on the sides and ends, cut one end of the roof grab
short, insert the long end, mark where the short ends falls, and
drill. Adjust the grab as necessary. Then insert the long end of
the grab and add the eye bolt for the center stand. Insert the
eye bolt, then insert the short end. Apply CA from underneath
and trim the protruding ends for a flat surface. You can see the
completed grab, with the ice hatch installed in [23].
Roof and reinforcements
Remember that the car is going to be handled from time to
time. There are roof supports in the kit but they do not pro-
vide much help in bracing the sides. It helps to brace the sides
MRH-Aug 2014
