STEP 11: Making Rubber Molds and Casting the Parts
Continued ...
The Erie Railroad Boxcars Part 3 - 12
48a: I have not
seen the Smooth
Cast products in
a big-box store
like Michael’s. If
you can’t find the
product locally,
it can be ordered
online. The
website is
In addition
to product
information, they
also have tutorials on the website.
I found what works best for me is to begin
pouring slowly in the center of the mold and
allow the casting liquid to migrate to the edges
of the mold. If there are any little gaps that have
not been filled, I pour a little more of the liquid
into the areas that needed to be filled. I also get
down and look across the mold to make sure
that I am not overfilling it. If I do, there are only a
few seconds to use the stir stick to pull away the
excess material.
While the instructions say you don’t have to
worry about air bubbles, I have found that
you occasionally get them. The first bubbles
I experienced, I tried to fill in with Squadron
Green filler. That was a bad idea! I quickly found
that it does not work with this product. There is
48a
STEP 12: Detailing the Sides and Ends
49: I had
one of those
“ah ha”
moments.
Why not
detail, paint
and decal
all of the
parts before
they were put together? It made sense, and I hate
masking cars. I wouldn’t have to worry about
damaging any of the detail that invariably seems
to get maimed when I pull the masking off.
It also would be easier to decal the cars with the
individual pieces lying flat. All I would have to do
is be careful assembling the cars. There are some
detail pieces would need to be added after painting,
but those could be touched up with a small brush.
49
STEP 11: Making Rubber Molds and Casting the Parts
Continued ...
a reaction that destroys the shape of the area
around the filled area.
The best method I found is to use small bits
of styrene held in place with a gap-filling ACC
cement. The other option is to cast a new piece.
My hat is off to those who make castings like this
on a regular basis.
MRH-Jun 2013
