38mm wide and as long as your module, then glue another
scrap along one edge, so you form a T shape [7].
Later, when it comes time to lay track, place the jig up against
the edge you want to be up-front, and you’ll be able to glue
the track in place very precisely by placing it along the other
edge of the jig [8]. Once the first track is in place, the second
track can then be secured using the notches on the edge of the
rerailer [9].
$500 layout 3rd place - 6
7. Form a jig out of a piece of scrap foam 38 mm (1
½ inches) wide and as long as the module. This will
allow you to consistently place the front track on each
module you make.
7
8. Using the jig you made, you can glue down the
track at exactly 38 mm from the front of the module.
To begin with, hot glue is more than satisfactory. This
allows you to melt the glue to reposition the track if
you want. Later, you can use more sturdy techniques.
8
Sticking with the Standard
This is necessary if you’re thinking of going to meets and con-
necting with others’ modules. But even if you’re not, the
opportunity for interchangeability – of being able to swap out
one module for another – really allows you to experiment.
Capitalize on this interchangeability in track planning, or other
remove-and-replace efforts (goof-ups will happen… learn –
and salvage – what you can, and move on.)
Later, you can start throwing standards to the wind (if you’re
not thinking of going to meets) but I strongly recommend not
starting out there.
MRH-Oct 2014
