steps. As the decals were applied I used Microscale Micro-Set.
After the decals dried I used Microscale Micro-Sol to give the
decals a painted-on look.
I brushed the roof to remove the dust that accumulated over
the years, then blew off the loosened dust with a compressed
air can. The caboose had been handled a lot, so it needed
cleaning before weathering. I used window cleaner and a rag.
Next I airbrushed the caboose with a very thin wash of light
gray. This alone makes the car look older and the paint faded. I
followed this by airbrushing a dirt color on the lower portion of
the caboose, making sure to fade it out as I moved toward the
roof [53].
49. End rails and grab irons painted white. I placed tape
over the EOT lens during the weathering stage.
49
Extended-vision caboose - 20
50. Light gray wash and dirt color have been airbrushed.
50
I used artist’s chalk for the remainder of the weathering. For
the streaks of rust that run down the side, I used chalk powder
mixed with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. I used drywall sanding
screens to turn the light rust-color chalk sticks into powder, and
mixed in a little alcohol to make a wash.
I applied the wash to the car with a brush [53]. The alcohol
dries very fast, leaving the chalk behind. I applied the chalk in
layers, and wiped off the excess if I applied too much.
After the wash part was complete, I applied darker powder dry
to resemble rust. Don’t use isopropyl alcohol to clean off chalk
if you put on too much. It may remove the thin airbrush coats,
as I found the hard way.
For darker rust spots I mixed chalk powder with flat acrylic
clear coat. It takes only a drop or two of clear coat for this.
I used a toothpick to mix the powder and clear coat until its
MRH-Nov 2014
