I cut out the decals for both sides and both ends on a piece
of glass using a sharp No. 11 X-Acto blade, and organized the
decals into piles, one for each side and one for the door decals
and end decals. I apply the decals and carefully move them
into position with a dull No. 11 knife.
Normally I apply Microscale Micro-Sol to the model’s surface
before laying on the decal to prevent “silvering” — micro-bub-
bles that get trapped under the decal -- but Micro-Sol tends to
distort Speedwitch decals because they are so thin. Instead, I
place them directly on the car side. I decal each car side sepa-
rately after the opposite side was completely dry.
14
14. This photo shows my typical decal process
underway. I cut out the decals for the entire model on
a thick glass sheet, then organize them into groups
depending on which part of the car they will be used on.
I then “paint” the decals with water and drag them off
the paper with the paintbrush and apply them directly to
the car. I do not use the popular “float-off” method.
After the decals dried completely, I went back with Champ
Decal Setting solution to soften them so they could settle into
around details. When the decal set was dry, I went back and
popped any bubbles with a sharp X-Acto blade and re-applied
the decal set.
After decaling was complete, I washed the car thoroughly to
clean any decal adhesive off the model and prepare it for fin-
ishing. Then I airbrushed the entire car with a solution of 40%
Testors Glosscote, 40% Testors Dullcote, and 20% thinner. This
secures the decals, hides the decal film, and provides a uniform
15
15. I use a flat artist’s brush to slightly change the color
of the side panels, proving a contrast between the
panels, doors, rivet lines, and other parts of the car. In
this case, I’m using water-based Special Oxide Red to
give the side a slightly orange hue. This brings out the
brown rivet lines and brown door, and will provide a
nice weathering affect when the black roof is applied.
Seaboard B8 & B9 - 10
MRH-Jun 2014