Getting Real Column - 4
two tracks side-by-side, and use a pencil to mark the amount
of rail that needs to be cut off to make the rails meet. Just
as the real railroads do, I leave the joints staggered, which
results in smoother running. I cut off the excess rail using
Xuron rail cutters.
The spikes will need to be trimmed from one or two ties to
allow the rail joiner to slide on. I use a scalpel with a no. 11
blade to do this. What else – I am a physician! A scalpel blade
is sharper and has a thinner profile than the usual hobby knife
blades. Scalpel handles and blades are readily available from
Amazon.com and others. A handle will run about $10, and you
can get 100 blades for about $13.
7. Marking the location to cut.
7
The next step is to slide the rail
joiners in position, and then
solder the joints. Soldering
ensures a good electrical
connection. I have done this
on all my layouts for years.
Even in an unheated garage
in California, where the tem-
perature has gone down to freezing in winter and above
100° in summer, there were no problems with expansion and
contraction.
My friend Marvin showed me a great tool for cleaning the tip
of a soldering iron. It’s a container [10] with a ball of brass
wool. It cleans the iron well, without cooling the tip, as a
9
8
8. Trimming spikes for the
rail joiner.
9. Soldering the joint.
MRH-May 2014
