Shoofly free-moN module - 8
Given the constant head-butting at the butt-joints, super-
secure rails are a must.
The first step is to secure the cork firmly on the birch-ply end
plate: while some like to glue a roadbed-contoured wooden
plate to create a firm base, I’ve found that just soaking the
cork in wood glue makes a rock-solid base for the track. This
involves pulling up the cork at the end plates and reapplying
wood glue a few times before weighing it down to set.
After the cork cures, sand it to an even shape. Apply a thin layer
of Gorilla Glue at the ends and place 3 or 4 PC board ties cut to
standard tie length. American Tie and Timber
now produces pre-cast and pre-gapped PCB tie
units for many scales. Cut away the plastic ties from the ends of
the flex track and solder the rails to the PC board ties to create a
secure section that will not wiggle or shift over time (9).
“I hand built the turnout using PC board ties
and Micro Engineering code 55 rail, though
a #7 commercial turnout would make a fine
subtitute. ”
Placing a small pocket mirror square against the end helps
ensure the track is perpendicular to the end plate (10). Using a
broad file, carefully work the exposed rail back flush to the end
plate. Go easy, as it’s much easier to take more rail away than
to add some later if there’s a gap.
I hand built the turnout using PC board ties and Micro
Engineering code 55 rail, though a #7 commercial turnout
would make a fine substitute. With Free-moN, turnout con-
trol needs to be accessible on both sides of the module. Unlike
NTRAK, we never know which side of the module will be the
10
9-10: Free-moN modules clamp together with flush
butt-joints, so the track must be firmly anchored to the
end plate. We use Gorilla Glue to secure gapped PC
board ties to the roadbed, then solder to secure the
rails. A mirror helps ensure the track is perpendicular
to the end plate.
9
MRH-Nov 2013
