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Questions, Answers & Tips - 3
good primer and won't break the bank. It comes in five colors.
We like Krylon because it covers in a thin coat and comes with a
good spray nozzle.
Testors 2782 Super Fine Gray Lacquer Primer is also good. Read
the labels or website and look for a primer that is intended for
metal. Scalecoat I paints are formulated to be used without a
primer on wood and metal.
You need to mist on just enough primer to cover the surfaces
and then let it dry hard -- probably one or two days. The idea of
a primer is to create a surface to which paint will adhere, and not
flake or chip (3). Once the primer has set up, you can paint with
your favorite acrylics or enamels.
A couple of items in hobby stores sound like they would work
as primers, but read the labels carefully. Model Master Gray
Sandable Lacquer Primer can build up quickly and obscure fine
details. Floquil and PollyScale lines include paints named 'Gray
Primer' and 'Zinc Chromate Primer' but these are paints formu-
lated to replicate the look of 1:1 primer. There's a link below that
takes you to Testors' primers for metal.
– MRH
Read more at:
Scalecoat:
Testors:
.
Q.
Trying to renumber some newWalthers cars and man is
their paint tough! Tried the eraser, tried the eraser w/ alcohol,
and even tried Joe’s Decal Remover and didn’t even smudge
the numbers.
Q.
I need to replace the color Union Pacific logos on several
Pacific Fruit Express reefers, made by InterMountain, with the
black and white logo, to update them to late 1953. I also need
to re-number and change other lettering.
I keep reading online that many modelers use various methods
for removing printed lettering on cars but with varying degrees
of success.
A.
Joe's Decal Remover can remove InterMountain's lettering
without damaging paint. How to remove lettering is among the
Top 3 in questions on model railroad message boards. There are
dozens of answers because there are dozens of paint and letter-
ing combinations among the manufacturers. Walthers and Kato
lettering are particularly tough. The only universal solution is
blasting with baking soda or fine aluminum oxide, but that takes
special equipment and some careful handling.
Because there are so many variables, you should test any solu-
tion on a scrap model or in an easily concealed spot. Some
lettering can be scraped away with a knife blade, or with a fiber-
glass or brass pencil. But it is very difficult to avoid damaging the
paint finish this way.
Liquids can be applied with a damp, but not wet, cotton swab.
Do not let your remover solution remain on the finish long
enough for it to migrate into the paint. Go slowly until you find a
workable method.
An alternative method is to daub alcohol or decal solvent on the
lettering, let it sit for a minute, and then gently scrape it with a
piece of stiff styrene – .040 should work.
Here's a rundown of new and old solutions. Start at the top and
work your way down:
Isopropyl alcohol:
91% alcohol from the drug store works with
the cotton swab method and can be diluted. Products labeled
“rubbing alcohol” can contain oils that can leave a residue.
Microsol:
This is a decal solvent and can work on stubborn let-
tering, using a pencil eraser or cotton swab. Walthers Solvaset is
similar. Both can be thinned with water if they work too quickly.
MRH-Mar 2013
