power than it is with the decoder installed, so give it a thor-
ough checkout before you begin the decoder installation, and
correct any problems that come up.
When items A through D have passed muster, we are ready to
begin the preliminary work of:
(1)
deciding where to mount the decoder,
(2)
what lighting functions we want, and
(3)
where to run the cable to the tender.
This is a good time to check the available space inside the
boiler for the decoder. If there is a boiler weight inside, remove
the smoke box front by prying it off, then the screw holding the
weight in, and drop it out the front.
By setting the engine upside down and looking into the front of
the boiler while shining a light down into the firebox area, you
should be able to see how much room you have.
Begin by removing the boiler from the frame, usually with
one screw through the bottom of the cylinder saddle and two
screws at the back or underside of the cab.
With the boiler removed, if the engine has a constant-lighting
unit for the headlight, remove it. Then make sure one side of
the headlight bulb is not “grounded” to the boiler—both leads
must be electrically isolated before connecting to the decoder.
Normally there is a wire running from the draw bar to one side
of the motor, so cut that wire but note which motor terminal it
“Surprisingly, there are many Vanderbilt ten-
ders out there that are completely soldered
together, and 'breaking into them' can mean
resorting to brutal measures.”
