Page 27 - 39. MRH13-05-May2013
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Up the Creek Column - 6
21a, 21b: Once the
Squadron White putty
set, I used some 220
grit sandpaper wrapped
around a small block
of wood to sand the
area around the staples
smooth.
Some staple shanks still
protrude slightly above
the coving surface even
after setting them flush.
Careful sanding with the
220 grit sanding block
brought them down to a
smooth and flush surface.
21a
21b
I cut the styrene wider than needed for the coving so that there
is about 1-1/2" laying flat against the backdrop (2), and drove the
staples in this flat area. Even with their heads removed, the staple
shanks help keep the flat area of the styrene coving tight against
the wall, and help to prevent unsightly cracks in the sky.
Styrene coving installation milestones
Cut the styrene sheet and test fit it in the corner.
Shove the coving into the corner and staple it in place.
Build up a fillet of drywall spackle next to the styrene to
hold the styrene in place and provide a smooth transition
from the styrene to the backdrop. Let dry.
Remove the heads of the staples and set the shanks flush
with the styrene's surface.
Sand the spackle fillet.
22
22: Once the staples were smooth and flush with the
surface of the styrene, I applied several more layers of
spackle to the fillets, sanding after each layer dried.
Once the fillets were smooth and flush, I used a brush
to paint the coving with my sky blue latex house
paint. Here the paint is close to dry where the spackle
absorbed it, but the paint on the styrene is still quite
wet. The fan helps shorten the paint drying time. It takes
at least two coats of paint to color the coving evenly.
Apply Squadron White putty to the staple shank holes, let
dry, then sand smooth.
Apply additional layers of spackle to the fillets as needed,
sanding smooth after each layer dries. Shining a light close
to the backdrop but off to the side will reveal any remaining
dimples or divots.
MRH-May 2013
