Page 25 - 39. MRH13-05-May2013

Up the Creek Column - 4
11: Pretty much any kind
of spackle will work for
building up fillets next to
the styrene coving.
12a, 12b: I use a fairly
stiff 6" knife to spread and
smooth it.
13: The first layer of
spackle is applied. It takes
a number of applica-
tions before the fillets are
smooth and even.
12a
11
12b 13
14: I use diagonal nippers
to remove staple heads.
15: With the staple heads
removed, a small hammer
sets the staple shanks
flush with the surface of
the styrene.
16: The staple shanks
after being seated with
the hammer.
staple shanks
set flush with
the hammer
16
15 14
wall. Then, a couple of months later, I noticed that all the glue
joints had broken loose!
It seemed Latex Liquid Nails wasn't up to the task. I tried solvent
based Liquid Nails, polyurethane construction adhesive, ACC, and
epoxy. None made a secure wood to styrene bond. Eventually
I gave up using glue to attach the styrene backdrop panels and
resorted to #4 flat head wood screws. These worked OK until I
tore down the layout for a move two years later. The current lay-
out's perimeter backdrops are the room's walls. I don't yet know
what I'll use for the peninsula's backdrop, perhaps Masonite.
A result of all this was a supply of .060" sheet styrene that I'd
intended for use in backdrops. This gave me the idea to use it for
coved corners. I resisted using glue when it came to mounting
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MRH-May 2013