Page 71 - 38. MRH13-04-Apr2013
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Erie Railroad Boxcars, p1 - 15
22
22: After the cement had set I trimmed all of the
excess styrene so that it was flush with the bottom
of the existing bolster. With that task completed the
bolsters were cemented to the floor. The outside
face of the bolster is located 3’-9” in from the edge
of the floor. When finished the distance between the
bolsters should be 30’-4” center to center.
You will notice in the photo that the Athearn bolsters
are wider than the floor. That’s OK; they just need to be
trimmed down to match.
On the prototype the center sill is made up of two 12”
I-beams. I cut 2 strips of 2” x 6” styrene to form the top
flanges of the “I” beams. OK, I know these will not be
seen, but I need the thickness since I only had 4” x 8”
STEP 7: The Floor, Bolsters and Under Frame 75000 – 76499 Series
Continued ...
Athearn bolsters
are located first and
cemented into place
23
STEP 7: The Floor, Bolsters and Under Frame 75000 – 76499 Series
Continued ...
stock for the body of the I-beams. I cut two strips of 4” x
8” styrene to fill in between the bolsters.
These form the body of the I-beams for the center sill of
the car. I cut these to length to fit in between the bolsters.
I personally find that it is easier to cut them just a little
long, and then use the Northwest Short Line true sander
to get a snug fit.
23: The bottom flange of the I-beam will be 2” x 6”
styrene added after the floor has been cast. It seems
much simpler to do this method because:
1. I don’t know if I could cast the part with an
undercut that deep in the mold and successfully
remove it from the mold.
2. I am not sure that the flange area would fill
properly with the casting material.
If I couldn’t cast it I did not want to figure out how to
make a 2-part mold just to cast the bottom flange in
with the rest of the floor.
4" x 8" Center beams
cut to fit between ...
MRH-Apr 2013
